Surrounded by the ragged mountains of Eryri (Snowdonia) on the Glaslyn Estuary and guided into town by a high embankment with historic steam trains often puffing by, the road into Porthmadog harbour is an evocative delight. Things become a touch more seaside-conventional in town with the song of seagulls, boats bobbing on the water and a smattering of ice cream shops.
But Porthmadog is a unique corner of North Wales, not least for its proximity to architect Sir Clough Williams-Ellis’s colourful Italianate village of Portmeirion a couple of miles away.
Summer is busy in town, especially with the popular seasonal trains on the Ffestiniog & Welsh Highland Railway beginning their journeys here.
How to get there
Set on the western flank of Snowdonia National Park on the Glaslyn estuary leading to Ceredigion Bay, Porthmadog is relatively far-flung but reachable by train. Services from Birmingham and London require a change in the village of Machynlleth, while services from Liverpool and Manchester change at Bangor. From the train station, it is around 10 minutes’ walk into town.
The town centre is compact and walkable and local bus services are handy, with the 3B and 39 both heading to Portmeirion; the latter continues to Harlech beach. The 99 passes by Borth-y-Gest on the way to Black Rock Sands beach.
Where to stay
Moments from the harbour and located next door to The Ship pub, Yr Hen Fecws is a cosy bed and breakfast set in old stone houses featuring original exposed beams and wooden mid-century furniture. Doubles start from £110; the on-site restaurant serves beautifully presented modern Welsh cooking.
For a more elaborate stay, consider a weekend in the Hotel Portmeirion or one of the quirky village apartments. Rooms start from £234 and come with the bonus of Portmeirion closing its doors to the public at 5pm, freeing up the evening for serene waterside strolls.
Day one
Up with the sun
Just a few hundred metres from the harbour lies the little-known island of Cei Ballast. Hardy types might fancy an invigorating early morning swim there, but it is possible to walk there, along the rocky foreshore, at low tide.
The low-lying, shrub-filled island was built by the Victorians from the discarded ballasts of ships and is now one of Porthmadog’s quietest spots.
Back at the harbour, morning energy is provided by a hearty full breakfast at Spooner’s with fine views of the waterside and the curving train tracks from its terrace on summer mornings. Large, small and veggie breakfasts are offered.
Souvenir hunting
Porthmadog’s High Street is crammed with quaint and quirky stores and Cob Records greets you almost immediately. A local institution going since 1967, the record shop has more than 20,000 titles in stock. Other compelling boutiques are found further down the street, including Browsers Bookshop, Boho Bazaar, which has clothing, accessories and more, and Pop Local and Beyond, which is filled with locally made gift ideas from artisanal soaps to colourful ceramics.
Don’t miss
You don’t need to be a trainspotter to be enthralled by the visceral sights and sounds of old locomotives leaving and returning to Porthmadog on the Welsh Highland & Ffestiniog Railways. The Ffestiniog is particularly spectacular, snaking its way up above rocky slopes and lush forest before terminating at Blaenau Ffestiniog, a village with magnificent views across Wales’s slate-mining heartlands from its lofty mountain perch. The three-hour return journey costs £44, and £2 for under-16s and dogs.
Time for a sundowner
Sweeping mountain views can be soaked in outside the Tafarn Pencei café-bar, while The Australia pours award-winning cask ales from local brewery Purple Moose.
Dinner reservation
There are some delectable options for takeaway fish and chips (don’t miss Allports just off the High Street), but it is Banc’s tantalising tapas dishes that are the pick for an evening in Porthmadog. Set on the stonewall site of a former Victorian bank, it serves fresh fish supplied by local fishmonger Blas y Môr – mix and match locally caught mussels with curiosities such as Welsh rarebit empanadas.
Day two
Hit the beach
The sweeping golden expanse of Black Rock Sands is less than 10 minutes from Porthmadog by taxi, or around an hour’s walk. The boomerang-shaped beach looks out towards Ceredigion Bay, with mountains rising on either side, forming a cinematic scene. Black Rock Sands Café and Shenanigans Bar provides handily placed refreshments throughout the day during high season.
Lunch time
Halfway between Black Rock Sands and Porthmadog lies the quaint horseshoe harbour of Borth-y-Gest, which is a picturesque spot for lunch. With soft pastel colours and handsome Victorian awnings, the Seaview Café is a friendly place and its seafood platter – filled with smoked salmon, smoked mackerel and prawns in marie rose sauce – is ideal on a warm summer afternoon.
Time to relax
Weird and wonderful Portmeirion can get very busy, but its bucolic 70-acre, subtropical woodlands known as The Gwyllt (“wild wood” in Welsh) offers a tranquil escape among soaring redwood trees and peaceful Japanese gardens. Day admission to Portmeirion is £18 and should be booked in advance for summer days.
A final treat
No trip to Porthmadog is complete without a scoop of buttery Welsh ice cream from local institution Cadwaladers, from its original 1927 vanilla recipe to flavours that change throughout the year.
