When to go
Southwold carries itself very well indeed. This north Suffolk resort offers bucket-and-spade fun – there’s oodles of soft sand and a proper seaside pier, where you will find the most brilliantly bonkers array of homemade arcade machines (Under the Pier Show). But there is also an elegance to the small town behind the beach, with its handsome Georgian buildings and independent shops and cafés. The lighthouse, right in the centre, is still in service, and the harbour still clanks with working boats – clear reminders of Southwold’s long history as a fishing port.
This weekend marks the culmination of the town’s Arts Festival, with Latitude Festival taking place at nearby Henham Park later this month and historic model-yacht regattas on the pond throughout August. For more: visitsuffolk.com
How to get there
Southwold’s sandy seafront runs for around 2km, from the River Blyth at its southern end up to just beyond the pier – small enough to easily walk around.
The closest train stations are at Darsham and Halesworth. The infrequent but useful 99A bus runs from Halesworth to Southwold (£7, 30minutes; not Sundays); taxis cost around £25. Or walk: a 15km trail, via the magnificent church at Blythburgh, links the two, though check for flooding.
Where to stay
The Sail Loft lies away from the hubbub, halfway to the harbour. It has five maritime-fresh rooms overlooking either the marshes or the dunes; one has French windows opening to a private terrace. Rooms are not wheelchair-accessible and only guide dogs are allowed, though the laidback café-bar-restaurant below is wheelchair- and dog-friendly. From £120 B&B.
The Swan is the swankiest address in town. This Georgian inn on the market square was given a colour-popping revamp a few years ago. Rooms, including one that is fully accessible, are split between the main building (all with four-posters) and a simpler annexe, with lighthouse views. The restaurant is classy too. From £225 B&B.
Day one
Up with the sun
Get up for the country’s first sunrise – Southwold is virtually the easternmost point of England. The brave could join the Sole Bay Swimmers, who take a dip most mornings at around 7.30am from near Suzie’s Beach Café.
Otherwise, head for Canteen, a community-owned café, off the main drag, opened in summer 2022 by award-winning chef Nicola Hordern. The focus is on ethical, seasonal ingredients; start with a bacon brioche bun and return later for an excellent lunch (Tues-Sat, 9am-4pm).
Souvenir hunting
Browse the whole High Street, from Gallery Thea’s personalised pottery at one end, to the chic womenswear at Collen & Clare, at the other.
En route you’ll see the flagship Adnams Store, on Drayman Square. The brewery has been based in Southwold since 1890 and there is no more authentic souvenir than an Adnams ale, gin, brolly or bottle opener.
Don’t miss
Talking of Adnams, join one of its brewery tours (£25, daily) or enjoyable gin-making classes (£95, Thurs-Sun). Alternatively, take its new Lighthouse tour (£12.50, daily), launched this spring. An Adnams guide will introduce this dazzling, 31m-high landmark, built in 1887. Then it’s 113 steps to the top, for the best views in town.
Time for a sundowner
It’s got to be The Lord Nelson – a proper drinker’s pub, with a nautical vibe. Order a pint of Ghost Ship and bag a bench out the front, to sip in sight of the sea.
Dinner reservation
Close by, the Little Fish & Chip Shop fries up super-fresh cod, plaice, skate and more in crisp beef-dripping batter, to takeaway. Eat them down by the beach (11.45am-8pm daily).
If you’d prefer a sit-in dinner, book a table at Coasters, which offers Blythburgh pork belly, local crab and friendly service.
Day two
Hit the beach
Start at the 190m-long pier, then promenade the town’s Blue Flag beach via a long line of jolly beach huts. You can hire Sole Bay Hut 6 – all proceeds go to the RNLI (£70).
Past the town centre is Denes Beach, a wilder stretch of sand and shingle, popular with windsurfers and sunbathers.
Lunch time
At the end of Denes is Southwold’s harbour, also home to the Sole Bay Fish Company. Sit inside or out for delicious local fish tacos, seafood platters, lobster and oysters. There is a fishmongers and takeaway too. Booking advised (11.45am-3pm daily).
Time to relax
From the harbour, hop aboard the rowing-boat ferry to Walberswick. It takes two minutes to be rowed across the River Blyth (£2pp one way). Walberswick has a lovely low-key vibe, with Georgian houses, a village green, pubs, tea rooms, art gallery, gift shops, deli and an idyllic dune-backed beach.
A final treat
For a Friday or Saturday night treat, buy a ticket for the Electric Picture Palace, a bijou, bygone-style cinema with usherettes and mini Wurlitzer organ. Otherwise, retreat to Southwold’s Sailors’ Reading Room. Built in 1864 to keep mariners out of the pub, it is a treasure trove of nautical history and peace and quiet (free, 9am-5pm daily).
